An Experience At Shula's - 01

By Christoph G. Olesch – Chef, Food Writer

     A friend of mine called me and said I should go with him and his wife for an evening cooking class at a well renowned steak house – Shula’s in Itasca, NW Chicago. For those of you who don’t know, and I didn’t, it’s a small, specialty national chain by Don Shula. One of the most successful NFL football coaches ever, he is the only coach with a record of winning all football games in a season, including the Super bowl – 1972 Miami Dolphins 17-0 “Perfect Season.” I’m not much of a follower, but that’s an unbelievable achievement.

     Their website states their meat comes from the Graham Angus Farm, which is recognized as one of the top Angus farms in the country. The SHULA CUT® sits on top of the beef quality pyramid, taking only the most desired Custom Center Cuts of the Premium Black Angus Beef® brand, making The SHULA CUT the best beef money can buy. Shula's proprietary specifications guarantee that less than 1% will make The SHULA CUT. Damn, that’s got to be good…!

     I’m always chasing a New York Strip and, during my past extensive travels across the states, I was more often disappointed than satisfied – a good one is very difficult to find. You can rest assured, with that type of proclamation that I will be going soon to chase their Angus Strip. And I will be writing about it and let you know. I have a sense that it’s going to be excellent. I can’t wait.

     So, off I went that Friday night with great expectations, not knowing what to expect or what I was going to cook and get myself into.

     I arrived early. It gave me an opportunity to browse the theme of their bar “The No Name Lounge.” A complete history with artifacts and wonderful photography of the “Perfect Season” is displayed. If you’re a fan, you need to go see it.

     I also walked into the restaurant where, at the entranceway, were displayed on a cart, in all their splendor – raw and wrapped – filet mignon, porterhouse and “my” New York Strip. Thick cuts of mouth watering protein – the marbling was exquisite. I had the urge to make steak tartar, immediately. But the group was beginning to assemble and I had to give up that idea.

 

     Executive Chef Mark Enge was going to teach us. However, a last minute announcement was made that something came up and Shula Chef-Daniel Solone, was to take his place. Hoping it was nothing serious, we all said the hell with Enge…We couldn’t wait. Off we went, into the catacombs of Shula’s kitchen.

     Chef Daniel introduced himself and gave us the evening’s mission. Oh, my…! We were going to make grilled salmon…!

     The first few lessons were about color, shape and how to trim. Then the fun part – how to skin the salmon. With a razor sharp knife, he explained and began the process. He had obviously done this before – at least once, as we all smiled. Then, midstream, he asked for a volunteer who would want to try his skill. A lady stepped up, full of the devil and laughter. Never having done it before, she began to butcher the next 3 inches of this goddess from the sea.

     Not embarrassed, she laughed and made us laugh. Chef Daniel was almost stricken with the bends from hysterical laughter, not at the student, but her performance. She had us in stitches, obviously under her control. We could all relax now, because we recognized our own ineptitude and did not have to be afraid to try it or show our lack of skill.

     Daniel immediately and respectfully came to the rescue. Again he explained to us that once cut into, it is the skin which needs to be wiggled and pulled out from under the meat, as the knife remains in place and stationary. The student, with all her strength, did as was instructed and, Oh…!, she finished the job magnificently. A perfectly skinned salmon (itself grateful for the skill she now employed) was ready for the grill.

     The salmon was cut and placed on one of the kitchen grills. Nothing fancy, and with only a brush of teriyaki sauce on the meat, the aroma seized us all. We were motionless and Chef Daniel was very pleased, as he saw his techniques result in our becoming almost catatonic. Some of us took photographs to record the pleasure.

     Meanwhile, on the side, he was preparing a complimentary sweet and sour sauce, with pineapple and a Mirepoix – just an exquisite combination – and giving us lessons how to flip the pan to mix ingredients, instead of stirring. I never really mastered that myself. Perhaps with practice I could gain some skill.

     Simultaneously, we all called the previous student back to the task. We demanded she step up to the duty. After all, we were too busy enjoying wine. Hesitant and afraid, she obliged and committed. Then came the first swing of the skillet. Whoa…! What a weak attempt. She tried again and almost the entire dish was lost to the kitchen floor.

     Chef Daniel was a wise instructor. He rescued her from the daunting experience and gave her a different pan with dry, cut green beans. It was not long, (less the pound of beans on the kitchen floor), before the wrist action became sound and rhythmic and the skillet was in fluid motion with the experience of a seasoned chef. We all applauded and drank more wine.

     Everyone was served an ample portion of the cookery. Oh, was it exquisite…! We wished Executive Chef Mark Enge well, but did not miss him. Chef Daniel, educated with a Master’s in biology, degreed in the culinary arts and with long experience, served us well. He can cook in my kitchen anytime.

     Absolute fun was had by all. We learned enormously. We ate enormously. It was a class which everyone should have experienced.

     I would like to thank Chef Daniel Solone for his time, experience and skillful instruction – his fun. I would also like to thank Shula’s Steak House for making these classes available. As soon as you can, call them and make reservations, classes fill up quickly. Also, don't forget to eat at the restaurant. Tell me what you think.

     I’m signed up for the next one. What we will cook is apparently a secret. Executive Chef Mark Enge will be hosting. I’ll be making reservations at Shula’s for my “Chasing the NY Strip” project.

     My friend and I will dine. I will report soon and, I suspect I will be dining there often. You can visit their site here: http://www.donshula.com/

     Check back on my report of the next class and my dining experience..!


Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
March 12, 2010
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