Friday, April 9, 2010

Rib Lamb Chops & Herbs de Provence

Yield: Serves 6-8


While I was living at home, we never had lamb that I can remember. Why, I don’t know. But my best friend’s mother served it often at her dinner table during our high school years. I was never really fond of it. It was usually stewed and had flavors of mixed sauces I was not familiar with.

I’m relatively new to lamb, having it on a regular basis for only about 15 years – almost always at business dinners, if it was available. But my favorite preparation styles are always, grilled, sautéed in a pan or oven broiled, like a steak or pork chop. Oh, what a flavor searing gives it…!

You can finish lamb with an unlimited variety of preparation methods and spices – French, Greek and Spanish, for example. Marinades and sauces are limited only by the imagination. It is affordable. Although I’m always chasing the perfect New York strip and rarely finding it, I probably consume half as much red meat as in the past because of lamb, pork and chicken – that’s a good thing.

And this brings me back to a story about my best friend, while in high school. On a Friday night, at his dinner table, after finishing a lamb stew (we were 15, at the time), we began to design a  trip to his future home, still under construction, in one of the far suburbs of Chicago, Barrington. Of course our parents would never know of our clandestine intentions.

Our story was, we were getting together early Saturday in the morning and play at the nearby lake front park, all day. We would return in time for supper at 5. This was normal activity for us, and our parents never policed our whereabouts. After all, we were almost adult and, they assumed, as most parents do, we were responsible at this stage of our lives. Of course, most of the time we were – but the bug of piracy adventure overcame us.

We were inventive. We took the Irving Park bus west to the commuter train station. We gave the conductor our fares. We had and felt our independence. How mature we were; how great it was, and our parents were not the wiser. Only 8 stops to go, to put us at our destination.

From there we had to hitch-hike quite a stretch – first north on highway 59 and then west on Roberts Road. It was perhaps 15 miles in total. But it was do-able. With thumbs out and innocent, staring requests at drivers that travelled past us on a two lane highway at 60 miles per hour, it wasn’t long before we were given a ride. “Hop in, where do you need to go?” was the question. “Roberts Road,” we replied. In 10 minutes we were there – one leg down and one to go.

This story looks like its getting a little long. I was a fairly respectable guitar player of folk music back in those days (having been offered to play solo gigs, at 15, at respectable clubs in Old Town on Friday and Saturday nights, prime time - but that's another story). Classical guitar was beyond my reach. Let's listen to this piece, by Isaac Albenitz, an excellent guitarist...that should help us through this tale.



This summer day it was going to be a hot one. It was already 85 degrees, cloudless and only eight-thirty in the morning. Each of us was able to make ourselves a sandwich before we left. A couple of slices of rye bread, some lunch meat and cheese were the fare, and would not be noticeably missed. We both had enough sense to know that butter or mayonnaise was not going to survive.

We were dressed cleanly, appeared well mannered and walked along the highway politely. But I think it was the brown paper sandwich bags that told drivers we were good kids, not troublemakers or, as was customary to say, hoodlums. It was the sandwich bags that got us the rides. I'm convinced of it.

We did not worry much at that time, about our safety. Hell, we were 15, indestructible and, at worst, we could probably outrun most of the trouble we might have gotten ourselves into. That's what we believed. It was still a time when most people were human – decent; they looked out for each other. Drivers almost felt an obligation to help two boys get where they needed to go. They had our safety in mind on one hand, and wanted to know where we were off to, on the other. I think it could be called a symbiotic relationship – that’s what we told ourselves.

Roberts Road was a road less travelled; many open farms stretched across the landscape, only a few residential homes existed here and there. But luck was on our side again. A big Pontiac would pick us up. Only six miles to the Mobil station and we would be there. Success was achieved. We called each other Huckleberry and Finn.

So we spent the day doing nothing, really. John showed me his soon to be new home. He was very proud that he and his father were building it from scratch, one two-by-four at a time. It was a wonder - a 3 bedroom home with all glass windows, floor to ceiling, in the living, dining, kitchen and family rooms. A home in the countryside on 2 acres of land, away from the city, it was something to astonish.

Water was available. But it was a hot day and we needed to somehow cool off. By now it was 1 o’clock. We had to think about cooling off and prepare for the trip home. John said he knew of a pond only 300 yards up the road. It was very secluded; we could take our clothing off and jump in. No one would see us. So off we went.

After closer inspection, we called it a mud hole. We tested it by plunging our feet into it. We could feel the grit. They disappeared. Visibility was zero, but we took ourselves in and it was refreshing. We could only handle about 5 minutes in the muck. We feared underwater snakes and who knows what else. We looked at each other, climbed out and the heat almost instantly dried us. We were still in one peace. No mosquitoes yet.

It was a great day. We were independent and conquerors of time and places.

The trip back home was as successful as on the way out. We arrived a little before 4 o’clock. That gave us plenty of safety margin. We went to his house first, to check in.

His mother was home, preparing dinner. The aromas were unbelievable. Oh, what a sweet meal it was, cooking. I think it was pot roast. His mother was a wise woman – always believed in you and your potential. Only able to have one child, she loved boys and had a swarm of her son’s friends over as often as she could. She looked out for us, gave us hell when she felt we needed it – threatened to smack us one on the ears, if she thought we deserved it. We respected her and loved her. She treated us all as one of her own. In return, we made sure she was always safe. We called her Mom.

“Hi Mom,” John shouted out, “We had a great day at the park. Do you believe how hot it was today?” She replied, “Hello boys,” “yes it was hot.”

Whew…! All is well. We pulled it off. Our journey would never be discovered. “I’m glad you boys are back safe. How was your day?" "Fine," we said. "How was the train ride?” she questioned. “You must be hungry, having had only one sandwich for the whole day.”

Dead silence. John and I swallowed our tongues. Our mouths dropped to our belt line. Our faces became crimson. Our skin crawled with fear…

She turned and looked at us and burst into laughter. “Sit down boys, I’ve got some fresh, cold lemonade for you; and, take off those clothes – you stink like that mud hole – both of you. I better wash them, before your dad comes home.”

We changed. We had ice cold, tangy lemonade.

My clothes were dry and I went home for dinner. We had German liver dumpling soup and Brats with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut.

Life was good.

************************************************************

Ingredients

   • 10 rib lamb chops (3/4 inch thick)
   • 6 tblsp olive oil
   • 2 tblsp dried herbs de Provence
   • 2 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste
   • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
   • Fresh lemon juice

Preparation

Prepare the Lamb
   1. Make a paste with 4 tablespoons of oil, garlic & herbs de Provence
   2. Thoroughly rub the paste into the lamb chops
   3. Set lamb aside to marinade for 30 minutes
   4. Generously season both sides of the lamb chops with salt & pepper, to taste

Sauté the Lamb
   1. Heat a large pan on medium-high, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil
   2. Sear 3 to 4 lamb chops 2-3 minutes per side (medium-rare), until golden brown
   3. Set lamb to the side, loosely cover with foil and let rest 3-5 minutes

Serve

   Serve with buttered, mashed or boiled potatoes and crisp, steamed asparagus or fresh-cut green beans
   Pour natural juices from the pan onto the potatoes & chops.
   Sprinkle lamb chops very slightly with fresh lemon juice, as desired.

Herbs de Provence

Although there are regional and personal variations of this French herb mixture, if you do not have it as a purchased, readymade spice, you can make it with this recipe. I also use this often for other dishes like pork and roasted chicken. Add it to pizza saucees or sprinkle over game or kabobs before roasting. It's also good for seasoning salads, as well as soups and stews.

   • 1 tblsp thyme
   • 1 tblsp chervil
   • 1 tblsp rosemary
   • 1 tblsp summer savory
   • 1 tsp lavender
   • 1 tsp tarragon
   • 1 tsp marjoram
   • 1/2 tsp mint
   • 1/2 tsp oregano
   • 2 finely chopped bay leaves
   • 1/2 tsp cracked fennel seeds (optional)
   • 1/2 tsp sage (optional)

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
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Thursday, April 8, 2010

Rotini & Italian Sausage

Yield: Serves 6-8


I like almost everything Italian. Pasta and sausage are both my weakness.

Often, I will make spaghetti, fettuccine or Rotini, add a patty of butter and sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and garlic powder. You don't have to watch the water boil. While that is going, I'll steam a little asparagus or broccoli and quickly make a simple salad – that’s when I’m lazy. It can be just that simple but does not get better.

Most of the time I will be more disciplined and, of course, make a sauce or ragù of some kind, which does not take that much longer…oh, how sweet it is…!

This recipe is a fast dinner for yourself or the family. If your children like spaghetti and meatballs or pizza, they will demand this often. It is quicker and less complex than meatballs, and far more flavorful, hearty and healthful than any store bought sauce from a bottle.

Here is what I want you to do: while the sauce of sautéed aromatics with crushed tomatoes and sausage is cooking and filling the kitchen with ethereal bouquets, listen to a favorite album or enjoy the master Andrea Bocelli himself.



Serve a fresh salad before hand and savor this dish with a complement of garlic bread.

Ingredients

1 lb. Rotini
1½ lb. mild Italian sausage
4 tblsp olive oil
1 large onion, medium chopped
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 carrots, sliced – ¼ inch thick
2 celery sticks, sliced – ¼ inch thick
1 (28 oz.) can of crushed tomatoes
4 cups homemade or high quality vegetable stock
1 tblsp Parmigiano-Reggiano or Asiago, fresh grated per serving

Preparation

1. Heat vegetable stock and keep hot
2. Heat a large pan on medium-high, add 2 tblsp of Olive oil
3. Cut sausage links (keep in casing) at a 45 degree angle, ½ inch wide slices
4. Sear sausage until golden brown, stirring frequently, drain fat, continue searing – remove from pan, drain pan of fat
5. Heat 2 tblsp olive oil, add onion to the drained pan, stir and cook until golden brown – 4 to 6 minutes
6. Add garlic, stir and blend – sauté 1-2 minutes
7. Add carrots and celery – continue cooking 4-6 minutes, stirring frequently
8. Return sausage to the pan, crushed tomatoes and hot vegetable stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and slow simmer covered for 15 minutes
9. Meanwhile, prepare Rotini according to instructions – until al dente

Serving

• This will be a medium heavy sauce
• Ladle Rotini to individual bowls, top with sauce and garnish each with 1 tablespoon of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Asiago cheese

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Mirepoix


Mirepoix is a combination of onion, carrot and celery (both Pascal & celeriac) vegetables, and are used as a base to create soup stocks, stews and a wide variety of other meals or garnishes. Onions, carrots, celery, leeks, parsnips, garlic, tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms, peppers and ginger are among a group of vegetables commonly referred to as aromatics. They may also be added to produce variations of a Mirepoix. Mirepoix is the French term and it is sometimes referred to as the “French Holy Trinity.” Other countries have their own blend of vegetables and spices. In Italy, for example, the base is referred to as Soffritto, in Portugal, Refogado. In the American South, specifically in Cajon or Creole cuisine, the Mirepoix is referred to as the Cajun Trinity (or just Trinity), with a variation of vegetables. Within France itself, depending on the region, variations from the Classic Mirepoix exist. National cuisines are often built upon a small group of familiar flavors used in a wide variety of creative ways.

In its Classic form, Mirepoix consists of onions, celery or celeriac and carrots. The correct ratio of these vegetables, by weight and not volume, is 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot. Vegetables are diced or minced as evenly as possible, and are heated before other ingredients are added – creating a rich flavor which further develops as the dish is cooked. Some cooks add herbs to their Mirepoix, and it is also possible to see finely cubed fatty cuts of meat, such as bacon, which will brown and crisp in the pan.

A slow and low heat cooking method, also referred to as “sweating” the vegetables, tenderizes them. A sautéing method, which uses a medium-high heat, in addition to tenderizing, releases their natural sugars, allowing them to develop a complex caramelized flavor. A wonderful and varied mix of aromas and flavors develop as the vegetables are softened and/or browned. These flavors are incorporated into the finished dish or meal. In addition to being used at the beginning, Mirepoix may also be added into a side dish at the end to enhance or add flavors – to boiled or mashed potatoes or meats, for example.

Usually, especially in European cooking, flavorful base mixtures are gently "sweated" before liquids are added. The distinction between sweating and sautéing is an important one, because sautéing, with its emphasis on high heat and rapid cooking, is designed to seal the flavor of the vegetables within the vegetables, while sweating, which is cooking over low heat, is designed to get the vegetables to release their flavor so that it ultimately ends up in the surrounding liquid.

Traditional directions for sweating vegetables call for covering the pan so the moisture and aroma from the vegetables is entrapped and the vegetables don't have a chance to brown. But for some dishes, it's useful to first cook the vegetables gently (covered), and then remove the lid and allow the vegetables to slowly caramelize before adding liquid. This caramelizing gives soups and sauces a richer and more complex flavor and a deeper color.

Cutting Vegetables for a Mirepoix

For stocks, Mirepoix is eventually strained from the finished stock, so it's not critical to use great precision when chopping the vegetables. The pieces, however, should be more or less uniform in size, to allow for equal cooking times between differing vegetables.

The more finely vegetables are chopped, the more quickly their flavors and aromas are released into a stock.
For white stock, a ½ inch dice is common. Since brown stock is always simmered longer than white stock, it's acceptable to cut the Mirepoix into larger, 1-inch pieces. Mirepoix for a pot of long-simmering stock (4 hours) can consist of very large pieces of vegetables—onions cut in half, whole celery ribs, and carrots in chunks.

Fine dice for a quick-cooking sauce.

For dishes, the size individual vegetables are cut depends on how long the mixture will cook. The French deem it important that a classic Mirepoix be cut into very tiny dice called brunoise, since the smaller pieces will release their flavor more quickly during the short cooking time.

A medium cut for soups and braises.

Chunks for long-cooking stews.

Other cuisines call for mincing aromatics – like ginger and lemongrass, which are too fibrous to eat in large bites but, for a long-simmering dish, those aromatics may be left whole or slightly crushed, and then removed after cooking. Size also affects the appearance of a dish. If making a light sauce which is not pureed, cut the aromatics in small, neat pieces for a final, attractive presentation.

Preparing a Mirepoix

To achieve the best flavor from Mirepoix, thoroughly rinse and trim all the vegetable, first. Onion skin will impart an orange or yellow tint to a simmering liquid, which may not be desirable. Additionally, peel the very top layer from onions, to insure that bruises and/or rot are removed. I peel all vegetables on the premise that flavor is extracted into the dish more evenly.

Step 1

Start by cooking onions or leeks in a layer of fat – just enough to coat the bottom of the pan and vegetables. When the onions begin to release their juices and become slightly translucent, add the carrots and then after 1 or 2 more minutes add the celery.

White stocks and cream soups require cooking the Mirepoix in fat over low heat, until juices are released – also referred to as sweating. This can take up to 10-20 minutes. If the pan or pot is covered, it is called smothering. Mirepoix can also be cooked until the vegetables turn a deep, rich brown, either on the stove or in the oven – also referred to as caramelizing.

Step 2

For additional flavor, and if the recipe calls for, add tomato paste or purée after the vegetables are partially cooked and the celery is softened.

Step 3

Cook carefully with constant attention and stirring, until the mixture is a deep, rusty brown and the Mirepoix has a sweet aroma. This technique is called pinçage, stemming from the French pincer, “to stiffen or pinch.”

Mirepoix Base Variations

Classic Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Butter
     c. White Onion: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery: 1 part, diced
     e. Carrot: 1 part, diced
     f. Herbs & Spices (optional): thyme & bay leaf
Used to flavor a variety of stocks and soups. Often, tomato puree or paste is added to make brown stock.

White Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Butter
     c. White Onion or White of Leak: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery Root or Hearts: 1 part, diced
     e. Parsnip: 1 part, diced
Used to flavor white stocks and soups that require a milder than Classic Mirepoix flavor and/or ivory and white color.

Gascony Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Duck, Goose or Pork
     c. White Onion: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery: 1 part, diced
     e. Carrot: 1 part, diced
     f. Meat: Confit of Duck or Goose, Bayonne ham
     g. Herbs & Spices (optional): thyme, bay leaf

Provence Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Olive Oil
     c. White Onions: diced
     d. Leaks: diced
     e. Garlic: sliced
     f. Tomatoes: diced
     g. Celery: diced
     h. Carrot: diced
     i. Meat: Usually none
     j. Herbs & Spices: thyme, bay leaf, orange zest, saffron

Soffritto – Italy
     a. Name: Soffritto
     b. Cooking Fat: Olive Oil, Butter, rendered Prosciutto or Pancetta Fat
     c. White Onions
     d. Garlic
     e. Fennel
     f. Meat: Prosciutto, Pancetta or Veal
     g. Herbs & Spices: parsley, bay leaf and sage

Cajon Trinity – American South
     a. White Onion: 2 parts, diced (1 cup) – 50%
     b. Celery: 1 part, diced (½ cup) – 25%
     c. Bell Pepper-Green: 1 part, diced (½ cup) – 25%
Used in many Louisiana Creole and Cajun Dishes.

Matignon – Edible Mirepoix
     3 ½ oz. ham
     4 ½ oz. onion
     4 ½ oz. carrot
     2 oz. celery
     1 sprig thyme
     1 bay leaf
Sometimes referred to as “Edible Mirepoix,” mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices are added, as desired. It is also used to garnish a main dish, as well as to flavor it.
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Thursday, April 1, 2010

Salami & Sardines

My Famous Deli Sandwich #1


Memories of life at home are the most enduring ones we have. Our parents did things for our souls which we can never forget. Family traditions are built and passed on from generation to generation – Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving and often just everyday life’s routines.

Sandwiches have always been one of my passions. Why limit yourself to one type of primary ingredient or flavor, I thought, when you can have it all in one bite after another. When my oldest daughter was young (perhaps 10 or 12), and all 3 children were in the kitchen, I said one day, “Hey, want to have one of my world famous Dagwoods? The best damn sandwiches in town…!” I always used expletives.

They had no clue what was coming, of course, but my enthusiasm just overwhelmed them and we were, all of us, caught up in the excitement – perhaps frenzy – of what was about to be invented. They didn’t know; I did not either.

We had wonderful rye, French, Italian or fresh sesame buns to die for available from local bakeries or small food stores. Out came the bread. The children were instructed to get ingredients they liked from the refrigerator – salami, cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, mustard, ham, turkey...There was never a shortage of these sinful delectables.

“You forgot one of the most important ingredients of all,” I said. “Get that fresh can of sardines.” All three rushed toward the refrigerator – my son was victorious. To this day, he loves sardines and will bring over a can, every so often.

As they watched me carefully deliberate the order and amount of things, their mouths began to water, as did mine. I began to hum; they began to hum. We all harmonized. Then my youngest daughter blurted out, “Hey, Dad, I’ll get the plates.” My son got the glasses. My oldest daughter yelled, “I’ll pour the milk…!”

I carefully sliced the sandwiches. Their mother thought we were insane, but then I had to quickly make another one. We all hummed and yummed…Oh, what a feast it was. From that day forward, often my children would ask me to make a "world famous” Dagwood, when they dropped over at my house, unexpectedly. Which one, really didn't matter.

Yesterday, 20 years later, my youngest daughter proclaimed through Messenger, “Hey, Dad, you know what I want, right now?” "No," I said "what?" ...“One of your Dagwoods.”

Life is good.

************************************************************

Ok, stand in front of the kitchen window (that’s right, I said stand in front of the kitchen window)…
Lean forward on the counter with both arms to the side, relax and take a deep breath, exhale…ahhhhh.
Close your eyes and think about the great sandwich you are about to make – oh, the taste of it! This is not just a meal, but an affair with life...!

Start humming or whistle a favorite tune. Better yet, play a little of Simon & Garfunkel "Bridge Over Troubled Waters" (sing at the top of your lungs) or Simon's "Diamonds On The Soles Of Her Shoes" (let those hips and shoulders move).



Ingredients

• 2 slices of Rye Bread
• 2 leaves of lettuce of your choice
• 1 teaspoon of Mayonnaise
• 2 slices of tomato
• 1 teaspoon of Creamy White Horseradish
• 1 slice of Muenster Cheese
• 1 slice of Swiss Cheese
• 2 slices of Hard Salami
• 1 slice of Turkey
• 2 Small Sardines from Olive Oil
• A squirt of Yellow Mustard
• 1 paper thin Slice of Yellow or White Onion
• A sprinkle to taste of Salt & Pepper
• A good sprinkle of Italian Seasoning

Preparation

1. Start with a slice of bread
2. lay a nice lettuce leaf on the slice
3. Spread your mayonnaise onto the lettuce
4. Cap with 2 slices of tomato
5. Spread the creamy white horseradish
6. Lay the muenster, the swiss and salami respectively
7. Place a slice of turkey on the salami
8. With love, place 2 small sardines from olive oil on the turkey
9. Squeeze a small sine-wave of yellow mustard across the sardines
10. Place a thin slice of onion next
11. Sprinkle sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
12. Cover with 2nd lettuce leaf
13. Top with Slice of Rye

Grab a Soda of your choice with a quarter slice of squeezed Lime...

If this is your main meal of the day at lunch time, eat the whole damn thing! Otherwise, eat only half and save the other to be enjoyed at dinner time with a phenomenal bowl of homemade soup!

Also, don't forget...get your butt off the couch and exercise your heart for 1 hour. Burn 400+ calories. You can survive without "House" or "The Unit."

ENJOY...Damn, that's a good one...!!! 

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
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