Saturday, May 15, 2010

Pot Roast

Yield: Serves 3-4



Ingredients

• 2 lb boneless chuck eye roast
• 1 large onion – medium chopped
• 2 carrots – peeled, medium chopped
• 1 ½ lbs carrots – peeled, course cut ½ inch long
• 2 ribs celery – course cut ½ inch long
• 3 large garlic cloves – minced
• 2 tblsp vegetable oil
• 2 tsp sugar
• 1 cup low sodium beef broth
• 1 cup low sodium chicken broth
• ¼ tsp dried thyme or 2 sprigs
• 1 ½ cups water
• 1 ½ lbs small red potatoes
• ¾ lbs parsnips – peeled, course cut ½ inch long
• ¼ cup red wine

Preparation – Chuck Eye Roast

1. Place an oven rack to the lower middle position and set to 300 degrees
2. Trim excess fat from the roast and rub with salt and pepper
3. Add oil to a Dutch oven, on medium-high sear and brown the roast on each side for approximately 4 minutes, being careful to prevent the oil from smoking
4. Remove roast and set aside

Preparation – The Mirepoix

5. In left over fat, add onions, 2 carrots and celery to the Dutch oven, cook at medium heat, stirring frequently until golden brown – approximately 8-10 minutes
6. Stir in garlic and sugar until fragrant – approximately 1-2 minutes
7. Stir in beef and chicken broths and thyme, scraping off any fond from the bottom of the pot

Braising the Roast

8. Return the roast and juices to the Dutch oven
9. Add water until the liquid is half way up the sides of the roast
10. Bring to a simmer, cover and place the pot into the oven
11. Cook for 2 ¾ hours, turning over the roast every 30 minutes

Cooking The Vegetables

12. After 2 ¾ hours of braising the roast, add potatoes, carrots and parsnips to the pot, submerging them in the liquid, cover and return to the oven
13. Continue brazing for approximately 45 minutes to 1 hour, until vegetables are done – they should be firm, but tender
14. The roast should now be finished and very tender when pierced with a fork

Finish the Sauce & Serve

15. Remove the roast and vegetables and tent with aluminum foil
16. Add the wine to the sauce in the pot and simmer for 3-5 minutes
17. Slice the roast into ½ inch thick slices
18. Add ½ cup of finished sauce to the roast
19. Serve the meal and pass the remainder of the sauce

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Friday, April 9, 2010

Rib Lamb Chops & Herbs de Provence

Yield: Serves 6-8


While I was living at home, we never had lamb that I can remember. Why, I don’t know. But my best friend’s mother served it often at her dinner table during our high school years. I was never really fond of it. It was usually stewed and had flavors of mixed sauces I was not familiar with.

I’m relatively new to lamb, having it on a regular basis for only about 15 years – almost always at business dinners, if it was available. But my favorite preparation styles are always, grilled, sautéed in a pan or oven broiled, like a steak or pork chop. Oh, what a flavor searing gives it…!

You can finish lamb with an unlimited variety of preparation methods and spices – French, Greek and Spanish, for example. Marinades and sauces are limited only by the imagination. It is affordable. Although I’m always chasing the perfect New York strip and rarely finding it, I probably consume half as much red meat as in the past because of lamb, pork and chicken – that’s a good thing.

And this brings me back to a story about my best friend, while in high school. On a Friday night, at his dinner table, after finishing a lamb stew (we were 15, at the time), we began to design a  trip to his future home, still under construction, in one of the far suburbs of Chicago, Barrington. Of course our parents would never know of our clandestine intentions.

Our story was, we were getting together early Saturday in the morning and play at the nearby lake front park, all day. We would return in time for supper at 5. This was normal activity for us, and our parents never policed our whereabouts. After all, we were almost adult and, they assumed, as most parents do, we were responsible at this stage of our lives. Of course, most of the time we were – but the bug of piracy adventure overcame us.

We were inventive. We took the Irving Park bus west to the commuter train station. We gave the conductor our fares. We had and felt our independence. How mature we were; how great it was, and our parents were not the wiser. Only 8 stops to go, to put us at our destination.

From there we had to hitch-hike quite a stretch – first north on highway 59 and then west on Roberts Road. It was perhaps 15 miles in total. But it was do-able. With thumbs out and innocent, staring requests at drivers that travelled past us on a two lane highway at 60 miles per hour, it wasn’t long before we were given a ride. “Hop in, where do you need to go?” was the question. “Roberts Road,” we replied. In 10 minutes we were there – one leg down and one to go.

This story looks like its getting a little long. I was a fairly respectable guitar player of folk music back in those days (having been offered to play solo gigs, at 15, at respectable clubs in Old Town on Friday and Saturday nights, prime time - but that's another story). Classical guitar was beyond my reach. Let's listen to this piece, by Isaac Albenitz, an excellent guitarist...that should help us through this tale.



This summer day it was going to be a hot one. It was already 85 degrees, cloudless and only eight-thirty in the morning. Each of us was able to make ourselves a sandwich before we left. A couple of slices of rye bread, some lunch meat and cheese were the fare, and would not be noticeably missed. We both had enough sense to know that butter or mayonnaise was not going to survive.

We were dressed cleanly, appeared well mannered and walked along the highway politely. But I think it was the brown paper sandwich bags that told drivers we were good kids, not troublemakers or, as was customary to say, hoodlums. It was the sandwich bags that got us the rides. I'm convinced of it.

We did not worry much at that time, about our safety. Hell, we were 15, indestructible and, at worst, we could probably outrun most of the trouble we might have gotten ourselves into. That's what we believed. It was still a time when most people were human – decent; they looked out for each other. Drivers almost felt an obligation to help two boys get where they needed to go. They had our safety in mind on one hand, and wanted to know where we were off to, on the other. I think it could be called a symbiotic relationship – that’s what we told ourselves.

Roberts Road was a road less travelled; many open farms stretched across the landscape, only a few residential homes existed here and there. But luck was on our side again. A big Pontiac would pick us up. Only six miles to the Mobil station and we would be there. Success was achieved. We called each other Huckleberry and Finn.

So we spent the day doing nothing, really. John showed me his soon to be new home. He was very proud that he and his father were building it from scratch, one two-by-four at a time. It was a wonder - a 3 bedroom home with all glass windows, floor to ceiling, in the living, dining, kitchen and family rooms. A home in the countryside on 2 acres of land, away from the city, it was something to astonish.

Water was available. But it was a hot day and we needed to somehow cool off. By now it was 1 o’clock. We had to think about cooling off and prepare for the trip home. John said he knew of a pond only 300 yards up the road. It was very secluded; we could take our clothing off and jump in. No one would see us. So off we went.

After closer inspection, we called it a mud hole. We tested it by plunging our feet into it. We could feel the grit. They disappeared. Visibility was zero, but we took ourselves in and it was refreshing. We could only handle about 5 minutes in the muck. We feared underwater snakes and who knows what else. We looked at each other, climbed out and the heat almost instantly dried us. We were still in one peace. No mosquitoes yet.

It was a great day. We were independent and conquerors of time and places.

The trip back home was as successful as on the way out. We arrived a little before 4 o’clock. That gave us plenty of safety margin. We went to his house first, to check in.

His mother was home, preparing dinner. The aromas were unbelievable. Oh, what a sweet meal it was, cooking. I think it was pot roast. His mother was a wise woman – always believed in you and your potential. Only able to have one child, she loved boys and had a swarm of her son’s friends over as often as she could. She looked out for us, gave us hell when she felt we needed it – threatened to smack us one on the ears, if she thought we deserved it. We respected her and loved her. She treated us all as one of her own. In return, we made sure she was always safe. We called her Mom.

“Hi Mom,” John shouted out, “We had a great day at the park. Do you believe how hot it was today?” She replied, “Hello boys,” “yes it was hot.”

Whew…! All is well. We pulled it off. Our journey would never be discovered. “I’m glad you boys are back safe. How was your day?" "Fine," we said. "How was the train ride?” she questioned. “You must be hungry, having had only one sandwich for the whole day.”

Dead silence. John and I swallowed our tongues. Our mouths dropped to our belt line. Our faces became crimson. Our skin crawled with fear…

She turned and looked at us and burst into laughter. “Sit down boys, I’ve got some fresh, cold lemonade for you; and, take off those clothes – you stink like that mud hole – both of you. I better wash them, before your dad comes home.”

We changed. We had ice cold, tangy lemonade.

My clothes were dry and I went home for dinner. We had German liver dumpling soup and Brats with roasted potatoes and sauerkraut.

Life was good.

************************************************************

Ingredients

   • 10 rib lamb chops (3/4 inch thick)
   • 6 tblsp olive oil
   • 2 tblsp dried herbs de Provence
   • 2 cloves garlic, mashed to a paste
   • Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
   • Fresh lemon juice

Preparation

Prepare the Lamb
   1. Make a paste with 4 tablespoons of oil, garlic & herbs de Provence
   2. Thoroughly rub the paste into the lamb chops
   3. Set lamb aside to marinade for 30 minutes
   4. Generously season both sides of the lamb chops with salt & pepper, to taste

Sauté the Lamb
   1. Heat a large pan on medium-high, add 2 tablespoons of olive oil
   2. Sear 3 to 4 lamb chops 2-3 minutes per side (medium-rare), until golden brown
   3. Set lamb to the side, loosely cover with foil and let rest 3-5 minutes

Serve

   Serve with buttered, mashed or boiled potatoes and crisp, steamed asparagus or fresh-cut green beans
   Pour natural juices from the pan onto the potatoes & chops.
   Sprinkle lamb chops very slightly with fresh lemon juice, as desired.

Herbs de Provence

Although there are regional and personal variations of this French herb mixture, if you do not have it as a purchased, readymade spice, you can make it with this recipe. I also use this often for other dishes like pork and roasted chicken. Add it to pizza saucees or sprinkle over game or kabobs before roasting. It's also good for seasoning salads, as well as soups and stews.

   • 1 tblsp thyme
   • 1 tblsp chervil
   • 1 tblsp rosemary
   • 1 tblsp summer savory
   • 1 tsp lavender
   • 1 tsp tarragon
   • 1 tsp marjoram
   • 1/2 tsp mint
   • 1/2 tsp oregano
   • 2 finely chopped bay leaves
   • 1/2 tsp cracked fennel seeds (optional)
   • 1/2 tsp sage (optional)

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Thursday, April 8, 2010

Rotini & Italian Sausage

Yield: Serves 6-8


I like almost everything Italian. Pasta and sausage are both my weakness.

Often, I will make spaghetti, fettuccine or Rotini, add a patty of butter and sprinkle with grated parmesan cheese and garlic powder. You don't have to watch the water boil. While that is going, I'll steam a little asparagus or broccoli and quickly make a simple salad – that’s when I’m lazy. It can be just that simple but does not get better.

Most of the time I will be more disciplined and, of course, make a sauce or ragù of some kind, which does not take that much longer…oh, how sweet it is…!

This recipe is a fast dinner for yourself or the family. If your children like spaghetti and meatballs or pizza, they will demand this often. It is quicker and less complex than meatballs, and far more flavorful, hearty and healthful than any store bought sauce from a bottle.

Here is what I want you to do: while the sauce of sautéed aromatics with crushed tomatoes and sausage is cooking and filling the kitchen with ethereal bouquets, listen to a favorite album or enjoy the master Andrea Bocelli himself.



Serve a fresh salad before hand and savor this dish with a complement of garlic bread.

Ingredients

1 lb. Rotini
1½ lb. mild Italian sausage
4 tblsp olive oil
1 large onion, medium chopped
3 large garlic cloves, thinly sliced
2 carrots, sliced – ¼ inch thick
2 celery sticks, sliced – ¼ inch thick
1 (28 oz.) can of crushed tomatoes
4 cups homemade or high quality vegetable stock
1 tblsp Parmigiano-Reggiano or Asiago, fresh grated per serving

Preparation

1. Heat vegetable stock and keep hot
2. Heat a large pan on medium-high, add 2 tblsp of Olive oil
3. Cut sausage links (keep in casing) at a 45 degree angle, ½ inch wide slices
4. Sear sausage until golden brown, stirring frequently, drain fat, continue searing – remove from pan, drain pan of fat
5. Heat 2 tblsp olive oil, add onion to the drained pan, stir and cook until golden brown – 4 to 6 minutes
6. Add garlic, stir and blend – sauté 1-2 minutes
7. Add carrots and celery – continue cooking 4-6 minutes, stirring frequently
8. Return sausage to the pan, crushed tomatoes and hot vegetable stock, bring to a boil, then reduce heat and slow simmer covered for 15 minutes
9. Meanwhile, prepare Rotini according to instructions – until al dente

Serving

• This will be a medium heavy sauce
• Ladle Rotini to individual bowls, top with sauce and garnish each with 1 tablespoon of Parmigiano-Reggiano or Asiago cheese

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Saturday, April 3, 2010

Mirepoix


Mirepoix is a combination of onion, carrot and celery (both Pascal & celeriac) vegetables, and are used as a base to create soup stocks, stews and a wide variety of other meals or garnishes. Onions, carrots, celery, leeks, parsnips, garlic, tomatoes, shallots, mushrooms, peppers and ginger are among a group of vegetables commonly referred to as aromatics. They may also be added to produce variations of a Mirepoix. Mirepoix is the French term and it is sometimes referred to as the “French Holy Trinity.” Other countries have their own blend of vegetables and spices. In Italy, for example, the base is referred to as Soffritto, in Portugal, Refogado. In the American South, specifically in Cajon or Creole cuisine, the Mirepoix is referred to as the Cajun Trinity (or just Trinity), with a variation of vegetables. Within France itself, depending on the region, variations from the Classic Mirepoix exist. National cuisines are often built upon a small group of familiar flavors used in a wide variety of creative ways.

In its Classic form, Mirepoix consists of onions, celery or celeriac and carrots. The correct ratio of these vegetables, by weight and not volume, is 2 parts onion, 1 part celery and 1 part carrot. Vegetables are diced or minced as evenly as possible, and are heated before other ingredients are added – creating a rich flavor which further develops as the dish is cooked. Some cooks add herbs to their Mirepoix, and it is also possible to see finely cubed fatty cuts of meat, such as bacon, which will brown and crisp in the pan.

A slow and low heat cooking method, also referred to as “sweating” the vegetables, tenderizes them. A sautéing method, which uses a medium-high heat, in addition to tenderizing, releases their natural sugars, allowing them to develop a complex caramelized flavor. A wonderful and varied mix of aromas and flavors develop as the vegetables are softened and/or browned. These flavors are incorporated into the finished dish or meal. In addition to being used at the beginning, Mirepoix may also be added into a side dish at the end to enhance or add flavors – to boiled or mashed potatoes or meats, for example.

Usually, especially in European cooking, flavorful base mixtures are gently "sweated" before liquids are added. The distinction between sweating and sautéing is an important one, because sautéing, with its emphasis on high heat and rapid cooking, is designed to seal the flavor of the vegetables within the vegetables, while sweating, which is cooking over low heat, is designed to get the vegetables to release their flavor so that it ultimately ends up in the surrounding liquid.

Traditional directions for sweating vegetables call for covering the pan so the moisture and aroma from the vegetables is entrapped and the vegetables don't have a chance to brown. But for some dishes, it's useful to first cook the vegetables gently (covered), and then remove the lid and allow the vegetables to slowly caramelize before adding liquid. This caramelizing gives soups and sauces a richer and more complex flavor and a deeper color.

Cutting Vegetables for a Mirepoix

For stocks, Mirepoix is eventually strained from the finished stock, so it's not critical to use great precision when chopping the vegetables. The pieces, however, should be more or less uniform in size, to allow for equal cooking times between differing vegetables.

The more finely vegetables are chopped, the more quickly their flavors and aromas are released into a stock.
For white stock, a ½ inch dice is common. Since brown stock is always simmered longer than white stock, it's acceptable to cut the Mirepoix into larger, 1-inch pieces. Mirepoix for a pot of long-simmering stock (4 hours) can consist of very large pieces of vegetables—onions cut in half, whole celery ribs, and carrots in chunks.

Fine dice for a quick-cooking sauce.

For dishes, the size individual vegetables are cut depends on how long the mixture will cook. The French deem it important that a classic Mirepoix be cut into very tiny dice called brunoise, since the smaller pieces will release their flavor more quickly during the short cooking time.

A medium cut for soups and braises.

Chunks for long-cooking stews.

Other cuisines call for mincing aromatics – like ginger and lemongrass, which are too fibrous to eat in large bites but, for a long-simmering dish, those aromatics may be left whole or slightly crushed, and then removed after cooking. Size also affects the appearance of a dish. If making a light sauce which is not pureed, cut the aromatics in small, neat pieces for a final, attractive presentation.

Preparing a Mirepoix

To achieve the best flavor from Mirepoix, thoroughly rinse and trim all the vegetable, first. Onion skin will impart an orange or yellow tint to a simmering liquid, which may not be desirable. Additionally, peel the very top layer from onions, to insure that bruises and/or rot are removed. I peel all vegetables on the premise that flavor is extracted into the dish more evenly.

Step 1

Start by cooking onions or leeks in a layer of fat – just enough to coat the bottom of the pan and vegetables. When the onions begin to release their juices and become slightly translucent, add the carrots and then after 1 or 2 more minutes add the celery.

White stocks and cream soups require cooking the Mirepoix in fat over low heat, until juices are released – also referred to as sweating. This can take up to 10-20 minutes. If the pan or pot is covered, it is called smothering. Mirepoix can also be cooked until the vegetables turn a deep, rich brown, either on the stove or in the oven – also referred to as caramelizing.

Step 2

For additional flavor, and if the recipe calls for, add tomato paste or purée after the vegetables are partially cooked and the celery is softened.

Step 3

Cook carefully with constant attention and stirring, until the mixture is a deep, rusty brown and the Mirepoix has a sweet aroma. This technique is called pinçage, stemming from the French pincer, “to stiffen or pinch.”

Mirepoix Base Variations

Classic Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Butter
     c. White Onion: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery: 1 part, diced
     e. Carrot: 1 part, diced
     f. Herbs & Spices (optional): thyme & bay leaf
Used to flavor a variety of stocks and soups. Often, tomato puree or paste is added to make brown stock.

White Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Butter
     c. White Onion or White of Leak: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery Root or Hearts: 1 part, diced
     e. Parsnip: 1 part, diced
Used to flavor white stocks and soups that require a milder than Classic Mirepoix flavor and/or ivory and white color.

Gascony Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Duck, Goose or Pork
     c. White Onion: 2 parts, diced
     d. Celery: 1 part, diced
     e. Carrot: 1 part, diced
     f. Meat: Confit of Duck or Goose, Bayonne ham
     g. Herbs & Spices (optional): thyme, bay leaf

Provence Mirepoix – France
     a. Name: Mirepoix
     b. Cooking Fat: Olive Oil
     c. White Onions: diced
     d. Leaks: diced
     e. Garlic: sliced
     f. Tomatoes: diced
     g. Celery: diced
     h. Carrot: diced
     i. Meat: Usually none
     j. Herbs & Spices: thyme, bay leaf, orange zest, saffron

Soffritto – Italy
     a. Name: Soffritto
     b. Cooking Fat: Olive Oil, Butter, rendered Prosciutto or Pancetta Fat
     c. White Onions
     d. Garlic
     e. Fennel
     f. Meat: Prosciutto, Pancetta or Veal
     g. Herbs & Spices: parsley, bay leaf and sage

Cajon Trinity – American South
     a. White Onion: 2 parts, diced (1 cup) – 50%
     b. Celery: 1 part, diced (½ cup) – 25%
     c. Bell Pepper-Green: 1 part, diced (½ cup) – 25%
Used in many Louisiana Creole and Cajun Dishes.

Matignon – Edible Mirepoix
     3 ½ oz. ham
     4 ½ oz. onion
     4 ½ oz. carrot
     2 oz. celery
     1 sprig thyme
     1 bay leaf
Sometimes referred to as “Edible Mirepoix,” mushrooms and assorted herbs and spices are added, as desired. It is also used to garnish a main dish, as well as to flavor it.
...

Thursday, April 1, 2010

Salami & Sardines

My Famous Deli Sandwich #1


Memories of life at home are the most enduring ones we have. Our parents did things for our souls which we can never forget. Family traditions are built and passed on from generation to generation – Christmas, Easter, Thanksgiving and often just everyday life’s routines.

Sandwiches have always been one of my passions. Why limit yourself to one type of primary ingredient or flavor, I thought, when you can have it all in one bite after another. When my oldest daughter was young (perhaps 10 or 12), and all 3 children were in the kitchen, I said one day, “Hey, want to have one of my world famous Dagwoods? The best damn sandwiches in town…!” I always used expletives.

They had no clue what was coming, of course, but my enthusiasm just overwhelmed them and we were, all of us, caught up in the excitement – perhaps frenzy – of what was about to be invented. They didn’t know; I did not either.

We had wonderful rye, French, Italian or fresh sesame buns to die for available from local bakeries or small food stores. Out came the bread. The children were instructed to get ingredients they liked from the refrigerator – salami, cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise, mustard, ham, turkey...There was never a shortage of these sinful delectables.

“You forgot one of the most important ingredients of all,” I said. “Get that fresh can of sardines.” All three rushed toward the refrigerator – my son was victorious. To this day, he loves sardines and will bring over a can, every so often.

As they watched me carefully deliberate the order and amount of things, their mouths began to water, as did mine. I began to hum; they began to hum. We all harmonized. Then my youngest daughter blurted out, “Hey, Dad, I’ll get the plates.” My son got the glasses. My oldest daughter yelled, “I’ll pour the milk…!”

I carefully sliced the sandwiches. Their mother thought we were insane, but then I had to quickly make another one. We all hummed and yummed…Oh, what a feast it was. From that day forward, often my children would ask me to make a "world famous” Dagwood, when they dropped over at my house, unexpectedly. Which one, really didn't matter.

Yesterday, 20 years later, my youngest daughter proclaimed through Messenger, “Hey, Dad, you know what I want, right now?” "No," I said "what?" ...“One of your Dagwoods.”

Life is good.

************************************************************

Ok, stand in front of the kitchen window (that’s right, I said stand in front of the kitchen window)…
Lean forward on the counter with both arms to the side, relax and take a deep breath, exhale…ahhhhh.
Close your eyes and think about the great sandwich you are about to make – oh, the taste of it! This is not just a meal, but an affair with life...!

Start humming or whistle a favorite tune. Better yet, play a little of Simon & Garfunkel "Bridge Over Troubled Waters" (sing at the top of your lungs) or Simon's "Diamonds On The Soles Of Her Shoes" (let those hips and shoulders move).



Ingredients

• 2 slices of Rye Bread
• 2 leaves of lettuce of your choice
• 1 teaspoon of Mayonnaise
• 2 slices of tomato
• 1 teaspoon of Creamy White Horseradish
• 1 slice of Muenster Cheese
• 1 slice of Swiss Cheese
• 2 slices of Hard Salami
• 1 slice of Turkey
• 2 Small Sardines from Olive Oil
• A squirt of Yellow Mustard
• 1 paper thin Slice of Yellow or White Onion
• A sprinkle to taste of Salt & Pepper
• A good sprinkle of Italian Seasoning

Preparation

1. Start with a slice of bread
2. lay a nice lettuce leaf on the slice
3. Spread your mayonnaise onto the lettuce
4. Cap with 2 slices of tomato
5. Spread the creamy white horseradish
6. Lay the muenster, the swiss and salami respectively
7. Place a slice of turkey on the salami
8. With love, place 2 small sardines from olive oil on the turkey
9. Squeeze a small sine-wave of yellow mustard across the sardines
10. Place a thin slice of onion next
11. Sprinkle sea salt and fresh ground black pepper to taste
12. Cover with 2nd lettuce leaf
13. Top with Slice of Rye

Grab a Soda of your choice with a quarter slice of squeezed Lime...

If this is your main meal of the day at lunch time, eat the whole damn thing! Otherwise, eat only half and save the other to be enjoyed at dinner time with a phenomenal bowl of homemade soup!

Also, don't forget...get your butt off the couch and exercise your heart for 1 hour. Burn 400+ calories. You can survive without "House" or "The Unit."

ENJOY...Damn, that's a good one...!!! 

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Wednesday, March 31, 2010

Ragu alla Bolognese

Yield: Serves 4-6


I have been cooking for a lifetime. Meals have always been good; none has ever been produced which was not edible – more than a few had to be rescued, but were still delicious.

As it happens with time and experience, you begin to prepare meals unconsciously – with a little of this and that and, somehow, everyone enjoys.

I’m quickly learning that, by developing this blog and recipe book, the “this and that” has to go to the wayside; every meal has to be cooked or baked, tested and proven and sometimes more than once. When it is your turn to make it, it better be right.

While making this dish, it brought me back to Venice, Italy. Now that was a romantic country and experience. I'll tell a great story, with my next Italian dish posting. In the mean time, this should set the mood and get you ready to prepare this Ragu alla Bolognese on a lazy, Sunday afternoon.



Some recipes require little effort, but still accurate documentation. Other recipes demand meticulous research, as with this Bolognese sauce. I’ve always made a good one, so people tell me, but I decided that creating an “original” one was important, not just good flavor. As with many recipes, discovering that “the original” recipe rarely exists can be frustrating.

What is “original” in fact is not original; also, we assume “original” if made by world renowned or celebrity chefs, when in fact it may not be – their recipes may come close but, after all is said and done, they also are interpretations or variations with their preferences.

So, I’ve concluded that, if a recipe tastes good or extraordinary, it is an excellent recipe. What should be said, however, by cooks and bakers at all levels, that recipes which they offer are not “the recipe.” Recipes are not definitive – they never can be.

For some reason, I have taken extra care to offer this recipe to as true to an “original” that is possible, perhaps because it is considered to be a world classic.

I think you will enjoy this. But as always, feel free to experiment – add fennel to the Mirepoix, add mushrooms, garlic, cheeses and other ingredients or spices to the sauce that please your palette.

Guten Appetit…!

************************************************************

Ingredients

• 1 lb. Tagliatelle or Fettuccine (1)
• 2 oz butter, unsalted (2)
• 6 oz of thick pancetta or bacon rashers, diced (3)
• 1 large onion, medium chopped
• 1 carrot, finely chopped
• 1 celery stalk, finely chopped
• 16 oz lean (85/15%) beef mince (4)
• 5 oz chicken livers, finely chopped (5)
• 2 cups beef stock - low sodium (6)
• 6 oz. can tomato paste
• ½ cup white wine (I used red cabernet sauvignon wine)
• 1 to 1-½ cup of milk or cream if required to make it thinner during simmering or to further tenderize the meat
• ¼ tsp freshly grated nutmeg (ground, in an emergency, may be used)
• Freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preparation - Sauce

1. Dice the pancetta or bacon
2. Dice the onion – medium
3. Slice carrot and celery into ¼ inch pieces
4. In a large skillet, heat ½ the butter until melted and hot
5. Add the speck (pancetta or bacon), cook until a nice golden brown
6. Add onion, carrot and celery – cook until soft and aromatic, 8 to 10 minutes
7. Increase heat, add remaining butter; add beef mince and brown
8. Optionally, add chicken liver – heat until the liver has changed color
9. Add beef stock, tomato puree, wine, nutmeg and salt and pepper
10. Bring all to a boil, reduce heat & slow simmer partially covered – 2 to 3 hours [add more milk if too dry]
11. garnish with freshly grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Preparation – Pasta & Serving

1. 30 minutes before the sauce is finished, prepare pasta to al dente (7)
2. Drain pasta quickly and minimally and serve into individual bowls (8)
3. Ladle ½ cup, more or less of ragù on top of pasta
4. Add fresh, grated Parmigiano-Reggiano on top of ragù
5. Garnish with a sprig of parsley, if desired

Footnotes:

(1) Original recipes are with Tagliatelle – flat pasta.
(2) In Bologna, butter reigns supreme; some recipes mix oil and butter
(3) Original recipes call for Pancetta
(4) Original recipes call for beef; variations are pork shoulder or sweet port sausage (casing removed)
(5) In some recipes or Italian regions, chicken liver is added for additional complex flavor or on special occasions
(6)Originally, beef stock is common, but mix with ½ beef and ½ chicken to cut the saltiness common in beef stocks
(7) Prepare pasta according to package instructions.
(8) Much argument exists, but a typical serving is approximately 4-5 oz.

...

Spanakopita

...
Recipe to come.

...

Fettuccine & Chicken Meatballs

Yield: Serves 4-6 – Approximately 35-38 Meatballs



Sometimes I want something lighter than beef, so I'll make chicken meatballs to go with my pasta. I also quarter them and put them in a salad, each dunked a little with the tomato sauce. Top the salad with a sprinkle of fresh, grated Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese.

These are also good by themselves as an appetizer, cold or hot. Skew each with a toothpick, or a bunch on a skewer. If you feel ambitious, cut each meatball in half, wrap them in Phyllo dough triangles and heat  in the oven, center rack on a cookie sheet at 325F for approximately 15-20 minutes, or until the pastry is a nice golden brown and flaky.

Never buy those frozen, processed chicken fingers again - that's not food. One of my grandsons, a very picky eater and aficionado of trash food, loved these. I'll get him weaned, yet.

************************************************************

Ingredients - Meatballs

1 lb. fettuccine
1 lb. chicken mince
2 oz. grated parmesan cheese
1/4 cup fresh, white breadcrumbs
2 medium cloves of fresh garlic, crushed
1 large egg
½ tsp salt
¼ tsp black pepper, fresh ground
1 tblsp chopped fresh parsley
1 tblsp chopped fresh sage
3 tblsp vegetable oil
Fresh grated Asiago or Parmesan cheese for serving

Preparation

1. Mix chicken mince, parmesan, breadcrumbs, garlic, egg & herbs
2. Season with salt & pepper
3. Shape into ping-pong sized balls
4. Heat oil and fry until golden brown – turn often, drain on paper towels

Ingredients - Tomato Sauce:

1 tbsp olive oil
1 onion finely chopped
2 14 oz. cans diced tomatoes, petite
2 bay leaves
1 cup fresh basil leaves
¼ tsp coarsely ground pepper

Preparation

1. Heat oil in a large pan, add onion and sauté for 3-4 minutes – until softened
2. Add diced tomatoes and bay leaves, cover and bring to boil – stir occasionally
3. Reduce heat and slow simmer for 60 minutes
4. Add meatballs to sauce, along with basil leaves, pepper and simmer 15 more minutes
5. While sauce is simmering, cook fettuccine until al dente

Serving

• Drain Pasta, serve portions in individual bowls
• Ladle a serving of Meatballs and sauce atop pasta – finish with 1 tablespoon of Asiago or Parmigiano-Reggiano cheese and garnish with a sprig of parsley

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
...

Saturday, March 27, 2010

All About Beef...Almost - 06 / 07: Anatomy of The Cow

...
6. Anatomy of the Cow - Where our meat comes from.

Most of us are familiar with some of the major cuts of meat, but most of us are not familiar from what parts of the cow these cuts come from (myself included, until I really started to do the serious research). So, here is a simplified illustration of this great, nourishing and sometimes mysterious aninal.

Chapter 7 gives a more detailed outline and some of the common names* of cuts. As I develop this chapter, I will put in more descriptive details as to tenderness, juiciness and flavor and how to best cook the various cuts.

Be sure to share your comments and knowledge. Come back often, for this educational adventure.

     1. Chuck
     2. Rib
     3. Loin
          a. Short Loin
          b. Sirloin
     4. Round
     5. Brisket
     6.  Fore Shank
     7. Short Plate
     8. Flank

(Reference Wikipedia)


Note:*
A 1200 pound Yield Grade 1 steer yields 518 pounds of retail cuts from a 750 pound carcass.
A 1200 pound Yield Grade 2 steer yields 502 pounds of retail cuts from a 750 pound carcass.
A 1200 pound Yield Grade 3 steer yields 435 pounds of retail cuts from a 750 pound carcass.

Of the retail cuts, on a carcass weight basis:
31% are steaks; 31% are roasts; 38% is ground beef and stew meat.


7. Types of Cuts & Common Names

     a. Chuck / Shoulder

          i. 7-Bone Pot Roast
          ii. Arm Pot Roast
          iii. Under Blade Pot Roast
          iv. Chuck Pot Roast / Steak
          v. Chuck Eye Roast
          vi. Short Ribs
          vii. Flanken Style Ribs
          viii. Mock Tender Roast
          ix. Chuck Top Blade Steak
          x. Shoulder Top Blade Steak (Flat Iron)
          xi. Shoulder Petite Tender
          xii. Shoulder Petite Medallions
          xiii. Ground Beef

     b. Rib

          i. Rib Roast, Large End
          ii. Rib Roast, Small End
          iii. Rib Steak, Small End
          iv. Rib Eye Roast, Boneless
          v. Rib Eye Steak, Boneless
          vi. Back Ribs
          vii. Spare Ribs

     c. Short Loin

          i. Top Loin Steak, Boneless
          ii. T-Bone Steak
          iii. Porterhouse Steak
          iv. Tenderloin Roast, Filet Mignon
          v. Tenderloin Steak, Filet Mignon

     d. Sirloin

          i. Sirloin Steak, Flat Bone
          ii. Sirloin Steak, Round Bone
          iii. Top Sirloin Steak
          iv. Tri-Tip Roast
          v. Tri-Tip Steak
          vi. Sirloin Tip Roast
          vii. Pin Bone
          viii. Flat Bone
          ix. Wedge Bone

     e. Round

          i. Round Steak, Boneless
          ii. Bottom Round Roast
          iii. Bottom Round Steak
          iv. Eye Round Roast
          v. Eye Round Steak
          vi. Top Round Steak
          vii. Boneless Rump Roast
          viii. Tip Roast, Cap Off
          ix. Tip Steak
          x. Top Round
          xi. Heel

     f. Brisket

          i. Brisket Whole
          ii. Brisket Flat Half
          iii. Brisket Point Half
          iv. Shank Cross Cut
          v. Brisket First Cut
          vi. Brisket Front Cut

    g. Fore Shank

          i. Foreshank

     h. Short Plate

          i. Skirt Steak
          ii. Stew Meat
          iii. Short Ribs

     i. Flank

          i. Flank Steak
          ii. London Broil

*American Angus Association • http://www.angus.org/
...

Friday, March 19, 2010

All About Beef...Almost

...
This "White Paper" is developing the subject about beef. It will take some time to complete it - I'm not sure this subject can ever be "completed." So I'm taking it one step at a time, to describe elements of this wonderfull protein and fare. Make comments. Give us your expertise. Come back often...!

(Image courtesy Omaha Steaks)

3. Grades of Beef

USDA Classifications

Beef quality refers to 3 primary expected eating characteristics of the cooked product – tenderness, juiciness and flavor. Grading is the differentiation of expected differences of these characteristics between grades.

Each USDA beef quality grade is a measure of a distinct level of quality -- and it takes eight grades to span the range. They are USDA Prime, Choice, Select, Standard, Commercial, Utility, Cutter, and Canner. Standard and Commercial grade beef frequently is sold as ungraded or as "brand name" meat. The three lower grades -- USDA Utility, Cutter, and Canner -- are seldom, if ever, sold at retail but are used instead to make ground beef and manufactured meat items such as frankfurters.

Of all the beef produced in the US, less than 2% is certified as USDA Prime. Typically you will not find USDA Prime in the supermarkets, since its limited supply is procured by fine meat purveyors that retail it to upscale restaurants and affluent consumers.

The United States Department of Agriculture (USDA) grades beef at the request of a meat packer. Only beef that is USDA inspected may carry the USDA shield of authenticity. This grading system determines the quality rating of beef, based upon inspection which essentially measures the amount of fat (marbling) in the ribeye muscle portion (lean) and combines the age (maturity) of the beef carcass to arrive at the grade quality.

Basically, the higher the ratio of marbling and the younger the beef, the higher the designation grade is. It is amount of marbling that determines tenderness, juiciness and flavor. The age of the beef determines beef texture and also effects flavor. Younger beef is more tender, has a finer texture and is also a lighter red color.

Therefore USDA Prime Grade has the highest rating of a combined high ratio of marbling with the youngest maturity of beef. That's why prime is the most flavorful and most tender with the finest of texture.

Although there are eight levels of USDA graded beef, there are generally only three USDA grades of beef that you would buy in a supermarket, a butcher shop or restaurant. They are USDA Prime, Choice or Select, which is the order of grade from highest to lowest in quality. Two lesser grades are Cutter and Canner, which you would typically find in frozen pot pie dinners, microwave burritos, hamburgers and other processed food products. USDA Select is not very far above the bottom of the edible barrel, though some major chain stores will market and infer to consumers that Select is a premium grade.

Beware of marketing deceptions where some supermarkets may try to fool consumers by using the words "prime" and "choice" without displaying the official "USDA Shield.” Unless prime and choice carry the USDA label, what you are buying will not be the real thing. Here are the Shields.

  
Some upscale restaurants employ clever menu copy that may deceive you into thinking you are ordering a USDA Prime Steak, when in reality you are being served the less costly "Choice" version. When shopping for quality steaks, always look for the USDA Shield / Label. When at a restaurant, always ask your server what the USDA grade actually is. If you hear stuttering and a quick diversion from the subject, ask questions.

When purchasing beef at stores, be aware that "USDA Inspected" on the label means only that it has been inspected. If it doesn't say Select, Choice or Prime on the sticker, it usually means the product received a Standard grade which, for all practical purposes, is not edible when applying dry heat cooking methods - grilling, broiling or pan frying.

USDA Prime

USDA Prime is the top grade with maximum tenderness, juiciness, flavor and fine texture. It has the highest degree of fat marbling and is derived from younger beef. That's why Prime is generally featured at the most exclusive upscale, steakhouse restaurants.

(Used by permission of the USDA)

USDA Choice


(Used by permission of the USDA)

USDA Choice is the second highest graded beef. It has less fat marbling than Prime. Choice is a quality steak, particularly if it is a cut that is derived from the loin and rib areas of the beef such as a tenderloin filet or rib steak. Generally, USDA Choice is less tender, juicy and flavorful with a slightly more coarse texture versus Prime.

USDA Select

(Used by permission of the USDA)

USDA Select is generally the lowest grade of steak you will find at a supermarket or restaurant. It is tougher, less juicy and less flavorful, since it is leaner that Prime and Choice with very little marbling. The texture of Select is generally coarser. As a result, Select is not nearly as enjoyable or desirable.

USDA Select is not very far above the bottom of the edible barrel, though some major chain stores will try and infer to a consumer that Select is a premium grade.

Cutter & Canner

Two lesser grades, below Select, are Cutter and Canner which you would typically find in frozen pot pie dinners, microwave burritos, hamburgers and other processed food products.

Percentage of Intramuscular Fat
For USDA Quality Grade
Degree of Marbling

11% and Above / Prime+ / Abundant

9.5% - 11% / Prime° / Moderately Abundant

8% - 9.5% / Prime- / Slightly Abundant

7% - 8% / Choice+ / Moderate

5% - 6% / Choice° / Modest

4% - 5% / Choice- / Small

3.5% - 4% / Select+ / Slight

3% - 3.5% / Select- / Slight

2.5% - 3% / Standard+ / Traces

2.5% and Below / Standard- / Practically Devoid



Common Steaks - Primary

1. Filet Mignon
(Image credit: Meyer Natural Angus)

The tenderloin is known as the most tender cut of beef. Ends of the tenderloin and any surface fats are removed. They are cut in various sizes. 6-oz. steaks can be up to 1.5" thick and 8-oz. steaks perhaps just over 1.75" thick.

2. Rib Eye
(Image credit: Meyer Natural Angus)

10-oz. ribeye steaks may run up to 1.0" thick and a 16-oz. may be up to 1.5" thick. A thicker steak will perform much better on the grill.

3. New York Strip

(Image credit: Meyer Natural Angus)

The striploin has a reputation for being one of the most premium cuts. The Sirloin end of the striploin is usually removed, as well as any excess external fat. Most are cut as "center cuts." General sizes are 8-oz. steaks that will be up to 1.0" thick and a heartier 16-oz. steak that may be as thick as 1.5."

4. Top Sirloin

(Image credit: Meyer Natural Angus)

Sirloin Butt. Tender with a perfect complement to the pronounced beef flavor the Top Sirloin is known for. External fat is trimmed, as well as what is known as the top sirloin cap. Portionas are usually steaks from the heart (Gluteus Medius) of the sirloin. Common sizes are from 6-oz. to 10-oz. with a thickness from 1.25" to 1.50".

5. Porterhouse


The Porterhouse is a combination steak which from the point where the tenderloin and top loin meet. Basically an over-sized T-Bone steak, the porterhouse is thicker cut and has much more of the tenderloin relative to the loin portion. If you remove the bone and cut out the two steaks that make up this cut you will get a tenderloin steak and a top loin (or New York Strip Steak).

Common Roasts - Primary

Data to come.
...

Wednesday, March 17, 2010

An Experience At Shula’s - 02

...

I said I would report on my next cooking class at Shula’s Steak House. So here it is. Spanakopita – what a delightful appetizer. I have enjoyed it in the past, but have never made it. Executive Chef Mark Enge was at the helm.

Tables and white cloths were set. I knew the group was going to be lively, when someone exclaimed,”Where’s the whisky?” We were served fresh, cold water in large wine goblets, and for those who started out with a soda at the bar, while waiting for the group to assemble, refills were offered.

The chef and an assistant had, apparently, been very busy getting ready for us. Fresh parsley, dill, scallions and stemmed baby spinach leaves filled workstations of the large, brightly lit and spotless kitchen with aromas one rarely senses in commercialized supermarkets. Oh, the dill was fabulous…! Red tomatoes were waiting to be diced. Eggs were carefully set and displayed. It looked like a bright morning, 7:00 AM Grecian farm stand on market day.

I got the sense that an appetizer, fit for a court, was about to be created.

The first lesson was how to recognize fresh vegetables. A bundle of green onions from a major supermarket was held up for all to see. The green was drooping and lifeless. Next, from a specialty vegetables vendor, we were shown what scallions should look like – tall, erect, and straight as redwoods. And, if that was not enough, both the curly parsley and dill displayed themselves as regally as bouquets of roses. That was impressive. In the future, I will be more careful when I shop for vegetables.

Before the preparation of Spanakopita, we enjoyed a fresh, cold salsa prepared with salmon. Drowned in flavor, chef Enge outdid himself. This was definitely something I was going to repeat in my kitchen, often, as soon as I can weasel the recipe out from under him. It had a wonderful kick and was just refreshing – par excellence. We were ready to start, but first a short story and brief notes about Phyllo (or Fillo) dough.

Phyllo dough can be daunting and just plain exasperating. But once you learn how to handle it, it really becomes, with a little practice and patience, not difficult at all. Handle it very gently, and it will not tear – gently…!

I still remember, as if it were yesterday, my mother used to make it from scratch in the dining room and on the table on a Saturday afternoon. We all loved Apfel Strudel, of course, and twice a month she would bake this nectar from the gods – employing my oldest brother and me to help her stretch the dough into a paper thin sheet (literally) 4x6 feet. It was truly a performance. My brother still complains to this day, how he disliked helping her make it. Of course, he did not protest when it came time to eat.

You can purchase Phyllo dough at most supermarkets in the refrigerated sections. It comes both frozen and refrigerated. Once thawed in the refrigerator, it can be kept for 2 weeks. Before using it, remove it when thawed overnight, carefully unroll it, and immediately cover it with plastic and a damp kitchen towel to prevent it from drying out. These sheets are very thin, they dry out quickly and that is when they tear while being handled. Uncover the stack, remove a sheet and recover.

Chef Enge demonstrated techniques of stripping, chopping, dicing and slicing parsley, dill, spinach and scallions. A very sharp chef’s knife is required.

The blade moved and flew with the speed of a Tsunami, the rhythm of drum rolls and dexterity of a woodpecker’s beak on fresh morning oak. Still today, I have not mastered that “way of the chefs,” and probably never will.

Individually, each of us prepared our ingredients and mixed them well in a small skillet. In went the spinach, the dill, the parsley, the onions, the egg, the salt and pepper (I snuck in a clove of garlic). Now came the Feta – some for the recipe and (while chef Enge was not looking) some for me. This stuff was tasty…!

OoomPaPa…! Bon Appetite…! Guten Appetit, Laß es Dir schmecken...! Καλή όρεξη! (Kalí óreksi!)…and in American vernacular, “Oh my…Holy crap, was it good…!”

I carefully grabbed a Phyllo sheet and placed it on a sheet of parchment paper. I slowly spread a very thin layer of warm, melted butter on top, by hand – you can use a soft brush to apply. I layed two more sheets, carefully covering each with butter. I placed the ingredients mixture onto the top Phyllo sheet, leaving one inch from each end, carefully rolled it closed, sealed the ends and placed seam side down.

We made it into a roll, instead of triangles, for expediency. Jokes were exchanged, we all looked at each others’ process, hoping to gain a secret and technique. Chef Enge kept a close eye on each of us, gave invaluable instruction and help and then placed all rolls into the oven at 325F for 12 minutes. Out they came and he presented our artistry. Because we wrote our names on the parchment, we were able to imbibe our own success or disaster.

Each Spanakopita roll was a success story. Not a single student failed. Hot, fresh, buttery, golden brown and crispy, with Feta oozing from the ends, each roll was a Rembrandt. What a flavor…! We each tasted our own. Oh, my…exquisite was the word. We all wrapped our creations and took then home to be enjoyed. I ate one quarter of the roll on the spot.

The spinach, the parsley, the dill, the scallions and Feta cheese (and my garlic) were all balanced – truly nectar. Executive Chef Enge, slightly rounded as all good chefs are, beamed with satisfaction at our success.

The recipe was so straight forward and easy to create, that our success belonged to him. I had a minute to talk to him, prior to my leaving. His experience is exemplar. In kitchens since he was 13, from a European background and cooking with the French, Executive Chef Mark Enge brings a style and flavors to his cuisine not easily available from the culinary world. Under his tutelage, perhaps there is hope for me, yet.

It was an hour’s drive for me, to get home. Half way there, as I paid my toll, I gave the attendant change at 10:45 PM with one hand and placed the last bite of Spanakopita onto my palette with the other. She looked at me, startled; I grinned with a mouthful and pulled away. The appetizer never had to suffer the ill fate and embarrassment of being reheated.

I will make this often and, because of Chef Enge, will begin to greatly expand my appetizer repertoire with Phyllo dough which, up to this point, has been fairly limited to sweets.

A big thanks to Chef Enge and Shula’s. Tonight I will chase their New York Strip and report in. By the way, I’m beginning my project called “Chasing The New York Strip.” Make sure you come back and, keep in touch, as I go from one restaurant establishment to another, chasing tenderness and flavor of the Strip. Good ones are not easy to find.

Also, watch for my in depth “White Paper – All About Beef,” which will deal with grading, types of cuts, processing, antibiotics, grass-fed vs. grain – the health, the flavor, advantages and negatives of each.

Check back soon…!

Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
March 16, 2010

Saturday, March 13, 2010

An Experience At Shula's - 01

By Christoph G. Olesch – Chef, Food Writer



     A friend of mine called me and said I should go with him and his wife for an evening cooking class at a well renowned steak house – Shula’s in Itasca, NW Chicago. For those of you who don’t know, and I didn’t, it’s a small, specialty national chain by Don Shula. One of the most successful NFL football coaches ever, he is the only coach with a record of winning all football games in a season, including the Super bowl – 1972 Miami Dolphins 17-0 “Perfect Season.” I’m not much of a follower, but that’s an unbelievable achievement.

     Their website states their meat comes from the Graham Angus Farm, which is recognized as one of the top Angus farms in the country. The SHULA CUT® sits on top of the beef quality pyramid, taking only the most desired Custom Center Cuts of the Premium Black Angus Beef® brand, making The SHULA CUT the best beef money can buy. Shula's proprietary specifications guarantee that less than 1% will make The SHULA CUT. Damn, that’s got to be good…!

     I’m always chasing a New York Strip and, during my past extensive travels across the states, I was more often disappointed than satisfied – a good one is very difficult to find. You can rest assured, with that type of proclamation that I will be going soon to chase their Angus Strip. And I will be writing about it and let you know. I have a sense that it’s going to be excellent. I can’t wait.

     So, off I went that Friday night with great expectations, not knowing what to expect or what I was going to cook and get myself into.

     I arrived early. It gave me an opportunity to browse the theme of their bar “The No Name Lounge.” A complete history with artifacts and wonderful photography of the “Perfect Season” is displayed. If you’re a fan, you need to go see it.

     I also walked into the restaurant where, at the entranceway, were displayed on a cart, in all their splendor – raw and wrapped – filet mignon, porterhouse and “my” New York Strip. Thick cuts of mouth watering protein – the marbling was exquisite. I had the urge to make steak tartar, immediately. But the group was beginning to assemble and I had to give up that idea.

 

     Executive Chef Mark Enge was going to teach us. However, a last minute announcement was made that something came up and Shula Chef-Daniel Solone, was to take his place. Hoping it was nothing serious, we all said the hell with Enge…We couldn’t wait. Off we went, into the catacombs of Shula’s kitchen.

     Chef Daniel introduced himself and gave us the evening’s mission. Oh, my…! We were going to make grilled salmon…!

     The first few lessons were about color, shape and how to trim. Then the fun part – how to skin the salmon. With a razor sharp knife, he explained and began the process. He had obviously done this before – at least once, as we all smiled. Then, midstream, he asked for a volunteer who would want to try his skill. A lady stepped up, full of the devil and laughter. Never having done it before, she began to butcher the next 3 inches of this goddess from the sea.

     Not embarrassed, she laughed and made us laugh. Chef Daniel was almost stricken with the bends from hysterical laughter, not at the student, but her performance. She had us in stitches, obviously under her control. We could all relax now, because we recognized our own ineptitude and did not have to be afraid to try it or show our lack of skill.

     Daniel immediately and respectfully came to the rescue. Again he explained to us that once cut into, it is the skin which needs to be wiggled and pulled out from under the meat, as the knife remains in place and stationary. The student, with all her strength, did as was instructed and, Oh…!, she finished the job magnificently. A perfectly skinned salmon (itself grateful for the skill she now employed) was ready for the grill.

     The salmon was cut and placed on one of the kitchen grills. Nothing fancy, and with only a brush of teriyaki sauce on the meat, the aroma seized us all. We were motionless and Chef Daniel was very pleased, as he saw his techniques result in our becoming almost catatonic. Some of us took photographs to record the pleasure.

     Meanwhile, on the side, he was preparing a complimentary sweet and sour sauce, with pineapple and a Mirepoix – just an exquisite combination – and giving us lessons how to flip the pan to mix ingredients, instead of stirring. I never really mastered that myself. Perhaps with practice I could gain some skill.

     Simultaneously, we all called the previous student back to the task. We demanded she step up to the duty. After all, we were too busy enjoying wine. Hesitant and afraid, she obliged and committed. Then came the first swing of the skillet. Whoa…! What a weak attempt. She tried again and almost the entire dish was lost to the kitchen floor.

     Chef Daniel was a wise instructor. He rescued her from the daunting experience and gave her a different pan with dry, cut green beans. It was not long, (less the pound of beans on the kitchen floor), before the wrist action became sound and rhythmic and the skillet was in fluid motion with the experience of a seasoned chef. We all applauded and drank more wine.

     Everyone was served an ample portion of the cookery. Oh, was it exquisite…! We wished Executive Chef Mark Enge well, but did not miss him. Chef Daniel, educated with a Master’s in biology, degreed in the culinary arts and with long experience, served us well. He can cook in my kitchen anytime.

     Absolute fun was had by all. We learned enormously. We ate enormously. It was a class which everyone should have experienced.

     I would like to thank Chef Daniel Solone for his time, experience and skillful instruction – his fun. I would also like to thank Shula’s Steak House for making these classes available. As soon as you can, call them and make reservations, classes fill up quickly. Also, don't forget to eat at the restaurant. Tell me what you think.

     I’m signed up for the next one. What we will cook is apparently a secret. Executive Chef Mark Enge will be hosting. I’ll be making reservations at Shula’s for my “Chasing the NY Strip” project.

     My friend and I will dine. I will report soon and, I suspect I will be dining there often. You can visit their site here: http://www.donshula.com/

     Check back on my report of the next class and my dining experience..!


Guten Appetit, und Laß es Dir schmecken...!
March 12, 2010
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Thursday, March 4, 2010

Foods To Know - About Ingredients

A basic understanding of our foods will be described and discussed here.
This section is under development.
...
• Meats
     o Beef


     o Veal

     o Lamb

     o Pork

     o Game / Venison

• Poultry


     o Chicken
     o Turkey
     o Hens
     o Duck
     o Pheasant

• Seafood


     o Round Fish
           Black Sea Bass
           Bluefin / Yellowfin Tuna
           Cod
           Haddock
           Mackerel
           Mahi-Mahi
           Red / Black Grouper
           Red Snapper
           Salmon
           Striped Bass
           Trout
           Walleyed Pike
           White Hake
           Yellow Tail Snapper
     o Flat Fish
           Dover Sole
           Flounder
           Halibut
           Lemon Sole
     o Non-Bony
           Cape & Thresher Shark
           Monkfish
           Sturgeon
           Swordfish
     o Shellfish
           Cephalopods
           Crustacean
           Molluskan
     o Other Fish
           American Catfish
           Anchovy
           Eel
           John Dory
           Ocean Catfish
           Sardine
           Tilapia

• Fruits


     o Apples
     o Berries
     o Citrus Fruits
     o Grapes
     o Melons
     o Other Fruits
     o Pears
     o Stone Fruits
For a Wikipedia reference, Click Here

• Vegetables


     o Bitter Salad Greens
     o Cabbage Family
     o Cooking Greens
     o Hard-Shell Squash
     o Lettuce Family
     o Mushrooms
     o Onion Family
     o Peppers
     o Pod & Seed Vegetables
     o Root Vegetables
     o Shoots & Stalks
     o Soft-Shell Squash, Cucumber & Eggplant
     o Tomatoes
     o Tubers
For a Wikipedia reference, Click Here

Herbs (Vegetables)



     o Basil
     o Cardamom
     o Chervil
     o Chives
     o Cilantro
     o Curry Leaves
     o Dill
     o Lemon Grass
     o Marjoram
     o Oregano
     o Parsley
     o Rosemary
     o Sage
     o Tarragon
     o Thyme
 For a Wikipedia reference, Click Here

• Dairy Products


     o Milk
     o Creams
     o Butter
     o Cheeses – Fresh
           Boursin
           Cheese Curd
           Chèvre
           Cottage
           Farmer’s
           Feta
           Mascarpone
           Mozzarella
           Queso Fresco
           Ricotta
           Soft Ash Goat
     o Cheeses – Soft/Rind Ripened
           Brie
           Camembert
           Epoisses
           Explorateur
           Limburger
           Pont l’Évêque
           Reblochon
           Tellegio
     o Cheeses – Semisoft
           Caciotta
           Fontina
           Havarti
           Monterey Jack
           Morbier
           Muenster
           Port-Salut
     o Cheeses – Hard
           Aged Cheddar
           Cantal
           Emmentaler
           Gouda
           Gruyère
           Manchego
           Pecorino
           Provolone
           Ricotta Salata
     o Cheeses – Grating
           Asiago
           Parmigiano-Reggiano
           Grana Padano
           Ancho Chile
           Caciotta
           Dry Monterey Jack
           Pecorino Romano
           Sap Sago
           Spanish Goat Cheese
     o Cheeses – Blue-Veined
           Gorgonzola
           Pont Reyes
           Roquefort
           Spanish Blue
           Stilton
     o Eggs
For a Wikipedia reference, Click Here
For a Wikipedia reference, American Cheeses Click Here
For a Wikipedia reference, Italian Cheeses Click Here
For a Wikipedia reference, Italian PDO Cheeses Click Here

• Grains, Meals & Flours


     o Wheat
     o Wheat Flour
     o Rice
     o Corn
     o Oats
     o Other Oats
     o Dried Pasta & Noodles
     o Dried Legumes

• Nuts & Seeds
For a Wikipedia reference: (Nuts Click Here Seeds Click Here

• Dried Spices
For a Wikipedia reference, Click Here

• Salt & Pepper

• Sweetners

• Other Sweetners

• Fats & Oils

 

• Miscellaneous


Images are courtesy of Merriam Webster Visual Dictionary On Line
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